Biblography

Bibliography

Flow

www.flowthelabel.com :   “FLOW is all about neat colors and inspiring prints, clean lines, elegant cut .... These clothes will make you go with the most enjoyable flow."
 https://www.notjustalabel.com/designer/flow

Katsushika Hokusai's

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2007/couture/christian-dior

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Great_Wave_off_Kanagawa

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hokusai

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edo_period

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thirty-six_Views_of_Mount_Fuji
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodblock_printing_in_Japan#Technique

Emanuela Fiorelli

http://www.cultura.bz.it/index.php?root=cal&mode=event&evtID=47601&_lC=evt_list   

http://www.comunicati-stampa.net/com/di-luce-propria-installazione-di-emanuela-fiorelli-e-paolo-radi.html

http://www.lobodilattice.com/mostre-arte/emanuela-fiorellipaolo-radi-opere-scelte

https://amedit.wordpress.com/2013/02/11/milano-emanuela-fiorelli-e-paolo-radi-in-il-paradosso-della-superficie/

http://www.fotovideolab.eu/Artisti/Emanuela_FIORELLI_1.htm

http://www.artnet.com/artists/emanuela-fiorelli/lio-laltro-BTiROcJLn7TjoHFB9Eoh6Q2

http://artsalesindex.artinfo.com/asi/search/Emanuela_Fiorelli/artistProfile.ai?artistID=252311

http://www.espace-expression.com/#!constructive-art-kinetic-art/clyb

Tame Mizuami

http://brookebobridge.com/hsiaoron-cheng/

http://brookebobridge.com/tamae-mizukami-illustrator/

http://www.artisticmoods.com/tamae-mizukami/

http://en.tis-home.com/tamae-mizukami/works/50

Takashi Murakami

https://hjalbonemedia.wordpress.com/2013/04/09/what-is-the-impact-of-anime-including-sexualisation-as-a-key-part-of-its-ideology/

http://www.artnet.com/Magazine/features/drohojowska-philp/drohojowska-philp1-18-01.asp

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Superflat

http://edition.cnn.com/2013/01/13/world/asia/talk-asia-murakami/

http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2014/nov/11/takashi-murakami-review-gagosian-gallery-fukushima

Issey Miyake

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gdxhNnytSs

http://www.pleatfarm.com/2010/10/06/origami-inspired-issey-miyake-132-5/

http://www.dezeen.com/2010/10/05/132-5-by-issey-miyake/

http://bbdobeau.com/en/work/issey-miyake

http://luxuryactivist.com/beauty/pleats-please-by-issey-miyake-happy-one/

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/f/fashion-in-motion-issey-miyake/

Mary Katrantzou

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Katrantzou

https://fashionparadoxes.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/mary-katrantzou-spring-summer-2015-fp-1.jpg

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou

Yohji Yamamoto

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yohji_Yamamoto

http://www.vogue.com/tag/designer/yohji-yamamoto/

http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/y/yohji-yamamoto/

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/jafa/hd_jafa.htm

Flow

S/S 2015 collection

S/S 2015 collection



S/S 2015 collection

S/S 2015 collection

S/S 2015 collection

S/S 2015 collection

S/S 2015 collection

S/S 2015 collection

Flow is a fashion Brand from  Belgian-Ukrainian  created by two sisters Victoria and Veronika they quote "  FLOW is all about neat colours and inspiring prints, clean lines, elegant cut .... these clothes will make you go with the most enjoyable flow." I think that the the use of "neat colours" with "inspiring prints" giving the collection a complementing contrast  as if they where to use all prints the collection may have to much to look at and if they where to use just neat colour then maybe it would be to boring so using the prints with the neat colours helps the prints to stand out and the neat colours to stay visually stimulating .Their work is influenced by cultural events  for example their Fall/winter 2015/16 collection took inspiration from the 70's where a wave of pop culture and hippy and psychedelic prints changed fashion as well as society going through riots and  protesting for equal rights and as their was a Vietnamese war which affected everyone in America as 1/2 million solider were sent over to fight leading to many of citizens become anti-war a protested for peace.

 I chose their S/S 2015 collection as i saw hints of Japanese influence in there work but with a modern twist as well as mixing feminine and masculine styles  From the sash of fabric tied around that  the waist to create a kimono like shape on fitted top and over sized jackets and there over sized culottes  where they used a pleating method so they hang asymmetrically off the model  which is a method that interest me in my designing  as well as the over sized  trousers.The use of minimalist colours with highlights of blue in some garment then the designers occasionally added garment  with interesting floral prints one inspired by "naive art of Ukraine’s native Ivan Semesyuk" using multiple colours for example a pair of culottes and a shirt dress. To link to their name Flow the Sister wanted to create a collection that goes with each other where the outfit can be changes and garment can be switch around a still look good and "flow" together and perfectly "flow into a "modern woman wardrobe" as i want to take the Japanese traditional kimono  and show an adaptation through time to contemporary fashion inspired from Japanese culture. 

{Source of photos and quote's   www.flowthelabel.com and https://www.notjustalabel.com/designer/flow]

Katsushika Hokusai's

The Great Wave off Kanagawa

Created by Hokusai artist, painter and print maker. The great wave is one of Hokusai famous prints and is part of a collection series called "Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji" published around the dates of 1830-1833.As the title suggest the painting is off a giant wave engulfing fisherman's boats with mount Fuji in the background .The perspective of the print shows the giant wave standing taller than mount Fuji showing it's powerful suggesting that the wave is a tsunami.tsunami. Hokusai has clearly captured the energy of the wave as it curves over to crash on the sea you can imagine the strength of the water maybe strong enough to break the boat in half. I also like the colour palette that he  has used the dull grey sky help to highlight the electric blue waves and the white surf on the waves. 


This piece is created from block printing a method commonly used in Japan and China, it was first used by Chinese Buddhist to create books for temples then was seen in Japan in the eighth century then as time went on the method got noticed by artist who used the method to create prints.The method involves first drawing the design onto paper the glued on a wooden block then the artist would cut away the wood on the outlines they have previously draw then applied ink to the block then pressed onto paper to reveal their print. 

Hokusai work has inspired many artist with his work. For example Dior's spring/summer 2007 Haute couture collection featured the Suzurka-San coat mixing Japanese and Victorian  with over sized kimono shaped sleeves and a Victorian ball gown shape with the great wave beautifully hand printed on the bottom with embroidered white linen. The coat has a elegant and royal look to it.The elegance of this dress contrast with the disaster the tsunami have could of caused to fishermen.

I find Hokusai work inspiring because i love the energy the piece has as well as the traditional style his work has  lasted through time and still is famous after  170+ years and is used as inspiration in all aspects of design. The shape seen in the design is something i want to explore for my collection  whether its in embroidery or fabric manipulation i also like the colour palette used in this design as it soft white and light blue then with a highlight of a darker shade of blue. 

Inspired from the great waves shape and style i created a sample that uses the curves the waves and wave crashing on top of each other i plan on mixing colours of blue and white taken from hosuke colour palette.  

Emanuela Fiorelli

Born in Rome in 1970 where he now lives and works Rome the city of art and culture he can get a lot of inspiration by taking in aspect of the city. I found inspiration in Fiorelli's work after seeing the peice that reminded me of Hosakes "Great wave" piece that's is famous for it's traditional style and power. I relate to the curving shape of Fiorelli work to a wave. Emanuel piece is minimalist with the colour use just being a white sculpture on a white background, Which give me an idea to create a similar idea by manipulation fabric in a certain way to create a similar affect.  

Her other work also intrigues interest, there are many aspects that help Fiorelli create her work that might look like a mess to some but to her its mathematical calculated and the relationship between filled and empty spaces. But some other pieces of her are less calculated and more about showing spontaneous expression . Her sculptures have a geometric look , she uses cotton thread or elastic to create interesting shapes to show stretch and extension and how a quite week  that are made using maths which highlights a interesting relationship between art and maths.Her pieces makes me realise as an artist that not every peice has to look like to  sense  to the audience but can still having a relative meaning to the artist. The feel of creativity shows from her work something i inspire to show in my work. even though her colour use doesn't seem to be as creative but on these pieces the use of  minimalistic colours black wool/elastic on white background to highlight the string and so colour doesn't take away from the peice.

Tame Mizuami

Tamae Mizukami is a freelance illustrator who has created works for various book covers from  block prints this is where designs are carved into blocks of wood or metal then ink is spread over the block then the block is pressed on to the paper. Her influence for most of her work is the nature of Japan and the traditional side of Japanese culture while still having to relate to what the author wants.Her designs are from trees, cherry blossom, to dragons fly s and Japanese Buddhist Wayo temple. Her use off colours vary as some designs are in a grey scale and minimalistic whereas some other use vibrant colours like lush greens to match the scenery.what I like about these designs is that there simplistic and capture the natural and traditional side of Japan but keeps the designs contemporary to fit in with modern culture. 

Takashi Murakami

I wanted to compare this artist work to Takashi Murakami who is a Japanese artist and sculptor whose work can be described as "cute" and "psychedelic" he is inspired by Japanese anime  (cartoons) and pop art. His work is modern and quirky, fitting into modern culture. His work includes an assortments of brightly colours flowers with smiley faces partnered with skulls. His work can also be called erotic and even perverse with sculptures of a girl with oversized lactating breasts which sold at an auction in 2002 for £293000,00. Since the 1970's the rise of sexualised art has risen due to the popularisation of anime and manga in western and Japanese culture like a anime series sailor moon where the female protagonists are know for wearing tight fitting school girl clothes costumes  with short skirts  program know suitable for any ages which could give wrong expectations for girls and d boys that watch the shows. and now audiences of this genre would would expect at least some sort of sexualisation in animes.  His style of art is called super flat which tends to consist of flat Japanese graphics and this art style has spread to western cultures. He has collaborated with Pharrell, Kanye West and Loui Vuitton 

Looking at these two style of artists like my two contrasting photo's these style show the traditional and modern side of Japanese and how they coexist in there society. The traditional art of block prints still used in modern day as Mizuami has showed with her detailed designs her style is completely different to Murakami as his work is a reflection on modern japanese culture that has spread to the western world with the use of cutsey characters and eye popping colours and ideas that you would expect to see in your dreams and he also highlights the sexualisation of media in japan his work.

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake is one of the top Fashion designers to come from Japan his designs are technical and expressive and he is known for pushing the boundaries of fashion and doesn't get limited by current trends and traditional rules. He originally studied Graphics at Tama Art University but he knew he wanted to study fashion so he went to Paris were he ended up learning from talented designers Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. He went on to open his own design studio where he began to research alternative fabric and design techniques this sense of exploration is what makes Miyake one of the top designers for his innovative ideas.

He is known famously for his innovative use of pleats in designs, making sure there technically perfect in measurement so there aesthetically pleasing . He designed pleated jacked for the Lithuanian Olympic team in the 1992 Olympics and then went on to design his "Pleats please" Spring/Summer collection in 1994.This collections designs where pretty basic he used a polyester jersey fabric for all of the designs and just created basic tops jumpers and cardigans in a wide range of vibrant colours. He wanted to create a line suitable for modern living which he accomplished with the Pleats Please collection as the garments travel well, don't require ironing and are able to be machine washed and dried in a short amount of time making them practical for people who have busy lives. As his fashion line developed the use of pleats in his designs flourished  as he went on to design catwalk pieces that hung delicately floating off the models Miyake wanted to focus on the space between the model and the fabric and how it moved with the model. 

In 2010 Miyake and his team "reality lab" created a collection based on origami, the art of paper folding, which is often associated with Japanese culture. The collection was called 132 5 with each number having a meaning: 1 meaning the single peice of fabric used, 3 meaning the fact that its 3D shape, 2 meaning that it can be folded in to a 2D/flat  and 5 meaning that each garment has a variety of different way the garment can be manipulated to changing the look. Miyake took a modern look on Japanese fashion by taking a traditional Japanese technique and using the idea to create a collection showing that he inst constrained by current trends and fashion rules. His work ethic is inspiring as he is constantly looking at new ways to transform and evolve the way people look at fashion but still keeping hints of traditional Japanese element just like how Japan as a country as technology  advance but still has places where people live in harmony of the traditional values of Japan and places of historical importance. “With the future as his guide and nature his inspiration, the path-breaking Japanese designer has created clothing with enduring, global appeal.” { http://mds.isseymiyake.com/im/en/work/ }1999 Time feature on the “Most Influential Asians of the 20th Century” (August 23-30 issue);

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou is a Greek fashion designer who currently lives and works in London.

2010, she was awarded the Swiss Textiles award  her collections can be found all over the world and is seen in Vogue, Dazed & Confused and Grazia then in 2011 she was awarded "The British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent"  then in 2012 Katrantzou was given the award for "Young Designer of the Year" at  Elle's Style Awards.Last year she collaborated with Addias and Topshop to create a collection for sports and high-street wear expanding her target market 

I was inspired by her Autumn/Winter 2013-14 collection where she decided to use darker and muted colours with tints of washed out blues and reds and green giving it a water colour effect. This collection is a contrast to most of the other collection Katrantzou has designed As most of them tend to use more Pastel and Vibrant-Stereotypical feminine colours. She was  inspired by landscape, black and white photography, being the same as what I have been inspired from.She incorporated the photography prints into her collection as she used scenic trees and architectural element like bridges which are two contrasting element as one is nature and one is man made which again is similar to my design idea of using the contrast of traditional and modern Japan. Another thing i like about this collection is the structure of her designs, its clear to see that she was inspired by Japanese shapes with the Kimono esq shoulders and sleeves and the wrap over dress that hangs at the front and back. Then a origami shaped shoulderless dress then the trousers with the hanging peice at the back that hangs just right so when the model walks it elegantly follows. When seeing this collection on the collection some of the designs seem quite stiff which is something I don't want in my collection as is doesn't have a a good flow when walking the catwalk but taking this out it's a good collection that i cant take elements of inspiration from the colour scheme and how she taken her theme of the photo and interrupted them into her design.

I Also I really liked her Spring/Summer 2015 collection  where she took a back seat from using digital printing and instead used beautiful embroidery. I find her inspiration for this collection intriguing as her theme was taken from a geological point of view looking at when the world was one large continent then started to drift apart which she illustrated by designing a outfit that with sandstone coloured trouser that shifts and flows with the models movements that has a sheer panel running down the side symbolises the plates of the earth moving apart she continues this theme on the top. Then as the collection progresses the garment get more detailed with the beautiful embroidery and mix of vibrant and pastel colours.That could possible symbolise the cracks and lava that began to appear as the earth evolves. Then she created a beautiful collared pastel blue dress with a black beaded hem then as you look closer the top of the dress is embroidered with hibiscus flower and iguanas that began to roam the paradise of earth before the evolution of humans. I love the progression of this collection and how for every garment that would come down the catwalk that shows the evolution of the earth. The collection is thought provoking and feminine.

Sources: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou

Johji Yamamoto

Johji Yamamoto 

Yohji Yamamoto- Born in October 3rd 1943 in Tokyo Japan. Noted as on of the most influential designer of his time and has even influenced his daughter Limi Yamamoto has followed in her father footsteps by becoming a fashion designer with her brand LIMI Fue where you can see and element of his design. After going to Paris too peruse his career as a designer by selling his sketches but because his designs were so different to anything anyone had seen as his designers were Avante garde and masculine no one was interested.So he went back to Tokyo and started designing a bigger and better collection and finally got noticed by a designer and as he got more work he was able to start his own company. In the 1970 the world was going through an economic crises and it was know as the "great depression" also as the cold war was continuing many protests fighting for peace and gay and woman right. Yamamoto designs suggested influence from this terrible period as he used dark colours, oversized silhouettes and draping and heavy fabrics maybe suggesting the dark cloud of weight that hanged over the world at this period of time. My favourite thing about Yamamoto designs was that he wanted to change people perception on how men and woman should be dressed and he designed a lot of woman garments with a masculine edge with the over sizing and darks colours and the rough texture and heavy weighted fabric and used embroidery on male garments.Some of his garments have a hint of influence from traditional Japanese fashion as he used kimono shapes and robe garment then switches them up by using draping and interesting pattern cutting. Also a key point element for Yamamotos work is quality rather than fast fashion high street clothing he want to make clothes that last and high quality  so the price the buyer pays translate the quality.

Two contrasting photos.

Torii, Study 1, Takaishima, Biwa Lake, Honshu, Japan. 2002

This photo was taken by photographer Michael Kenna an English photographer that mainly focuses on landscapes in black and white, his portfolio {http://www.michaelkenna.net/imagearchive.php}  is enchanting as he has captured  many beautiful shots from all over the world. I love the simplicity of his photos and he  is known to use dawn and dusk lighting and long exposures to get these shots. In the photo is a Torii- a Torii is a Japanese gate that symbolises the entrance or within a Shinto shrine (place of god) this Torii stands in lake Biwa across from the shrine. 

Kabukicho, Study 3, Tokyo, Japan, 2010

This photo was took by Martin Stavars who is a polish photographer that specialises in cityscapes and night photography in black and white {http://www.martinstavars.com/portfolio/ } .This photo was taken in Kabukicho which is a red light district in Tokyo where there are many nightclubs and  "love hotels" as well as being known as the "town that never sleeps" As well as having a high crime rating as there is large number of Yakuza which are " transnational organized crime syndicates" {http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakuza}  that are known for  drugs and trafficking. 

When i found these two photos i immediately saw the difference in  as the first picture is very minimalistic and tranquil making the audience only look at  the Torii as its the centre of attention where the second photo has a lot going on as there are billboard with lights and a sense of energy as the photographer used a slower shutter speed  to capture the movement of people.The after researching the location of these shoots i saw even more of a contrast as Kenna's photo is taken in a traditional Buddhist shrine in the middle of a lake  where as Stavars photo is taken in a red light district in the capital city so obviously there is a huge contrast in environment in these two photos. 

For my collection i wanted to create one outfit  stylized minimalistic and taking in elements of traditional Japanese garments like Kimonos then another outfit  being more modern and energetic with a lot going on and out there .Then the final outfit taking elements of both. 

FMP Proposal

Proposal

My theme for my collection is contrast as for my final major project I intend to create my collection inspired from two pictures showing a contrast in Japanese culture as one shoes a minimalistic tranquil Japanese scenery and another photo is of a busy energetic street in Tokyo, my plan is to create one garment minimalistic and another maximalist then the final one will be taking elements from both pictures. I had many reasons why I chose this theme as I have always took an interest in other cultures especially Japanese as I have seen many designers taking element from traditional Japanese style like kimonos and Geisha’s and using them in their designs. Having an interesting in black and white photography also helped me come up with this theme as I always have been drawn to the contrast between minimalistic and maximalist photography and what the photographer is trying to express with these styles. I had previously did research on the photographer that took the minimalistic photo as I thought the photos were simplistic but highlighted key items that the photographer found interesting. So for primary and secondary research I'm going to research photographers and as well as taking my own photos that shows an element of contrast. Japanese pattern cutting has had an huge influence in the fashion industry as they have changed the way garments are put together as well many Japanese designers that have influenced my work like Issey Miyake, Comme de Garçons Rei Kawakubo’s and Yohj Yamamoto. For my collection I have ideas to use embroidery and origami, layering, draping, oversized clothing and taking ideas from the pattern magic book these are all things I will sample in when staring this project. I came up with these plans when i stared to collecting images I liked in a small sketch book.